These didn't require it or recommend it, they just ran that way, they were no different than the other 40 plus we had... go figure..
We have an 01 and have not any problems accept once it was running really rough (is this what yours is doing?)- would even stall out and would have to restart - we were at the beach, took it to goodyear place and they replaced the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE- dh says could that yourself, its not too hard to do. That was probably 5yrs ago, then back a few months ago, started doing the same tyoe of thing, took it in and it was the coil on #5 cylynder, each cylynder has individual coils, mechanic would have to do. I also know of someone else who had the same problem, I think theirs was on 02. So ask if they've checked these two things. FYI - I've always just run 'regular' gas in it.
I've owned Ford's for years and never had a problem other than basic maintenance. The GM (now known as Obama Motor Co.) we have in the driveway I'd gladly give away(both the van and the Olds) as they've been horrible. I'd first try either octane booster or a higher octane as spark knock is generally associated with the octane level of the fuel and with some of the blends there is more ethanol in the mix and that could cause a problem. Mike
http://www.aa1car.com/library/spark_knock.htm Spark Knock is a knocking, rattling or pinging noise that may be heard when he engine is accelerating or is working hard under load (driving up a hill, towing a trailer, passing on the highway, etc.). Spark knock means the fuel is detonating. Detonation is when the fuel explodes erratically instead of burning smoothly. It occurs when there is too much heat and compression in the combustion chamber. It is similar to preignition, but preignition is when the fuel ignites before the spark occurs because of a hot spot inside the combustion chamber. Preignition can burn a hole right through the top of a piston (see photo above). Detonation is very bad for your engine because over a long period of time it may cause the head gasket to fail, the rings to break, piston lands to crack and/or rod bearing damage. CAUSES OF SPARK KNOCK The things that usually cause spark knock (detonation) are: (1) The EGR valve that is not working. The EGR valve is supposed to open when the engine is accelerating or lugging under a load. This allows intake vacuum to suck some exhaust in through the EGR valve to dilute the air/fuel mixture slightly. This lowers combustion temperatures and prevents knock. Inspect the operation of the EGR valve, and check for a buildup of carbon deposits on the valve pintle or valve port that may be blocking the flow of exhaust back into the engine. Clean off the carbon deposits with a wire brush and carburetor cleaner, or replace the EGR valve if it is defective. (2) A bad knock sensor. Your engine has a knock sensor that should detect detonation and tell the computer to re-My Friend the ignition timing. If your engine requires premium grade fuel, but you are using regular or mid-grade fuel, the knock sensor should detect any detonation that may occur when the engine is working hard under a load and cause the PCM to re-My Friend timing. This reduces power a bit but protects your engine against detonation. However, if the knock sensor is not working, spark timing will not re-My Friend when it should. Consequently, you may hear a pinging or rattling sound (spark knock) when accelerating, driving up a hill, or when the engine is lugging under a heavy load. The knock sensor can be tested by tapping on the engine near the sensor (not the sensor itself) with a wrench while watching spark timing and/or knock sensor input on a scan tool to see if it sends a timing re-My Friend signal. NOTE: Overadvanted ignition timing can also cause the same thing (spark knock). But on most late model engines, ignition timing is not adjustable and is controlled by the engine computer. The only way to change the timing advance would be to flash reprogram the PCM. (3) Excessive carbon buildup in the combustion chambers and on the tops of the pistons. This is usually more of an issue with older, high mileage engines or vehicles that are only driven for short trips and never fully warm up. Treating the engine with a dose of top cleaner or a fuel system additive that also removes carbon from the combustion chamber can usually clears this up. Some repair shops use a machine called a MotorVac to perform an engine carbon cleaning procedure. The machine uses a concentrated detergent to flush out the fuel injection system and combustion chambers. (4) Compression ratio too high. If an engine has been rebuilt and the cylinders have been bored to oversize, it will increase the engine's static compression ratio. Or, if the cylinder head has been resurfaced to restore flatness, this will reduce the volume of the combustion chamber and also increase the engine's static compression ratio. These changes will increase engine power, but also the risk of detonation on regular 87 octane fuel. Such modifications may require using higher octane 89 or 93 octane premium fuel and/or retarding spark timing. Engines that are supercharged or turbocharged are also at much higher risk of detonation because the forced air induction system increases compression. This usually requires using premium fuel. (5) Cheap gas. Regular grade gasoline is supposed to have an octane rating of 87. If the gas station or their refiner is cutting corners and the fuel is not 87, it may knock. The fix for this is to try a tank of mid-range or premium gasoline. Be warned, though, that some stations cheat on this too, and don't always give you the octane rating claimed on the pump. Premium costs more, but may be required to reduce the knocking. Or, if you always buy gas at the same gas station, try a different gas station. Don't buy the cheapest gas you can find. BP, Shell and Mobil are all good brands. (6) Engine overheating. If the engine is running too hot because of low coolant, a cooling fan that isn't working, a plugged radiator, bad water pump, sticking thermostat, etc., it may cause the fuel to detonate.
Insert snarky comment here about Wayne being a genus. Wayne, I thought I would just step in for SeaBee since he must be distracted at the moment. I am sure he will be disappointed in that he couldn't be first! :mrgreen:
F'd Over Rebuilt Dodge i have an 03 ranger. it's the first, and LAST ford i'll ever own. wouldn't have bought it except for the exceptional deal i got on it from a family member when i really needed a vehicle. but, in the last 18 months i've spent close to 4k fixing one thing after another...only has 115,000 on it, but i'd trade it straight up for a similar chevrolet/gmc any day....
Reply Wayne Stallings:: Sounds like you know a lot about cars. Well they have replaced my fuel pump, new spark plugs and another decarb clean, told me they were going to drive it and got a call this morning that my CAT system is all clogged up and they are replacing it.. and the sensors that moniter the system. Sounds scary to me... I mean if it is this messed up am I in for more trouble to come???? Thanks for all the info.
Did you buy it new? If so, I strongly suggest you contact a lawyer, especially if this last attempt doesn't fix it. Unfortunately, the NC lemon law does not apply to used cars.
It really sounds to me like there is more to this than meets the eye. The spark plugs might be an issue, but I cannot see where the fuel pump would be an issue with your problem. If the sensor system was not functioning properly it could affect the timing/temperature which would be related to the problem. It could be the result of something that caused the orignal problem or by the attempts to correct the problem by the shop. The complexity of the systems makes that more probable now than in earlier models. I would ask to speak with the District Rep for Ford on the subject with the possible use of another shop to confirm the solution fixed the problem. I would also consult an attorney just to be safe. The problem may now be solved, there may be no other problems, there may be other problems, or this problem may occur again, but there is no way to know positively. The old addage of hope for the best but plan for the worst is a good guide in this case.
I just want to say a Big Thank you for all the repsonses.. I did buy it new last year in March and by August it started doing this and has been an issue ever since, well it was fixed for most of the summer then it started back toward the end of last year. Hopefully something that they have done through process of elimination will have corrected the problem. They seem to think this blockage in my CAT system was what caused it, but I am just not sure why I would have the blockage... The sad part is I feel like when you buy something new you shouldn't have to deal with all this crap.. But trust me, I hope to have it back before my trip but the way the law reads, I think I would be under it now, my dad says there was a big write up in the N&O about NC Lemon Law and by the time you found a lawyer and went through the battle it cost more than the headaches of the car.. GOD I hope not.... :neutral:
did you ask them about the things I mentioned, the coil wire? several people have had this same prob. either way - good luck with it!
