If it's not one thing, it's another

So one large burner went out on my stove a few months back, I managed with the other one and the two smaller ones. NOW, the other big burner is dying on me. Which is more cost-effective, to fix it or just buy a new (used) one? It is about 10 years old, a Whirlpool 465 Super Capacity Self-Cleaning model.

 

I'd just call and see how much a new burner would be first, it might be cheap. But if it's that old, you might just want a newer, more energy efficient one.

 

Call Bobby Ross, 553-6205, and ask him. HONEST man who will tell you the truth!

 

Do you have a smooth top one or the regular burner type one? You can buy replacement burners for the regular type which would be cheaper than buying a new range, but if you really want the new one...

If you've got the smooth top, that's a problem. I had a burner go out too but haven't gotten it fixed yet. I really don't want to pay the man $75 to come out and tell me something I already know and then charge me to fix the thing. I researched the part and it's about $50 depending on where you look, we just don't know how to get into the thing to fix it. So I'm just making do. If you've got two burnt out, you might be better off getting a new one.

 

Burners....

Your typical handyman can fix a stove easily. Burners are about $9, the clip bout $4 and the switch bout $10. Thats all the parts except the wires to give you an idea of price. You know anyone handy in the neighborhood that owes you a favor?

 

Would all three pieces need to be replaced? AND the wires? If it is just the burner, I think I can handle it.

 

It's a regular burner, I don't want a new stove. I just want everything ready at the same time!

 

Just guessing cause i replaced one one time and it was just the burner, i unplugged one and plugged in the new one, hopefully that would be all your problem is too.

 

THAT'S what I am hoping!!

 

Most likely you would only need to replace one of the items. Wires rarely burn out. 99% of the time it is going to be the burner clip. I put all 3 prices up to point out the worst case. If the clip blew, and it shorted out really bad, you may have to replace the switch as well (happens in about 20% of the blown clips I see).

Dont guess, thats just wasting $$$ throwing parts at it and seeing what sticks Do you have a volt meter and a pretty good understanding of electricity?

We should probably carry this to PM, but some other people may be interested in how to properly troubleshoot a stove.

 

What is the burner clip, that silver colored thing I plug the burner into?

 

Kinda sorta. The silver piece is what holds the burner clip/block/recepticle in. It is typically a little black "box" looking thing that the burner plugs into. It'll have 2 wires out the back, and then the burner goes into the front.

You should not be looking @ anything until you have cut off BOTH breakers to the stove. They pack 220 volts of knock you across the room voltage. If the switch has burned out, it will still pack 110 volts even when in the off position.

Question #1 still stands "do you have a volt meter and a pretty good idea how to use it?"

 

Question #1, no - but I might have somebody lined up to come check it out for me. Are you volunteering if that falls through?

 

All depends on where you live. A volt meter is not required, but it does make things ALOT easier for me to troubleshoot for you in this format. I'm heading home from Raleigh now, I'll check back later.

For anyone to trouble shoot a stove......

#1 turn off both breakers, be very, very sure they are off.

#2 Remove the burners that are not working, look them over VERY closely for any little holes, little white spots, etc (especially on the bottom). Or just ohm it with your imaginary volt meter Pay extra attention to the ends that plug into the burner clips for pitting and burn marks.

#3 Lift the top of the stove up, it should come up just like a car hood. Look around for any obvious burn marks on the wires, paying extra attention to the inside of the clips. If it happens to be an old stove where the "hood" doesnt lift up, you can unbolt the burner clip and it'll have a little slack in the wires for you to look @ it.

If everything looks good on the burner, wires, and the clip, they are probably good and you need a new infinite switch. But a volt meter is the only way to be 100% sure.

Having a busted stove is a pretty good excuse to eat dinner out tho

 

if this doesn't fix your problem... i have a used coil-top stove for sale... pm me if you're interested...

 

OK, I will cut the breakers and do the visual check in a bit. Thanks!

 

I feel your pain. My large burner is shot and my medium only works on high. The two smalls are relatively useless. The large has already been replaced once. Damn near cheaper to buy a new stove. Mine is a smooth top. I wish I had never bought it.

 

Alright, the burners look OK. The clips and wires look OK. What does not look OK is the little black "box" that the wires go into. They each have small holes on their underside, and something that can be described as ash comes out of them when they are tapped. That is as close as I will get to it. I turned off all the breakers, but I am very paranoid about being electrocuted after your warnings, daredevil.

 

Thats your fried burner clips. What general area do you live in?

 

Twilight Zone.