My name is Shane Gentry . I am a professional dog trainer. I am a soon to be graduate of Animal Behavior College . I offer in home and at home private lessons at your convinience . I am located in clayton and service all surrounding areas. Group lessons are also available and shelter animals recieve a 10 percent discount !!! New puppy classes , basic obedience classes , one on one , whatever fits into your life and schedule im here to serve.please contact me at 919-427-4775 or shane@sallysaidso.com
Lets just get it over with...... Shane, please read the terms of service.... Posting Guidelines for 4042.com Discussion Board You can voice just about any opinion you want here, as long as you can do it without using all those well known "cuss words" or making vulgar statements you wouldn't make in front of your mother or kids. If that's too vague, here's some guidelines: 1. Posts made here that contain "swearing" will be deleted. (We used to edit them but that is too time consuming. They will simply be removed.) That *includes* posts that contain such words spelled out with "@" or "$", etc in strategic positions. They will be deleted. Offenders may also have their accounts removed without any additional warning. 2. Express your opinion on any topic you would like to - politics, abortion, homosexuality, war, peace, the economy...you name it! But do so with some sense of civility...any topic can be discussed without dipping into the sleaze bucket. 3. Messages posted here in the 4042.com Discussion Group that are "borderline" with our guidelines are much more likely to be left on the board when they are posted with a valid e-mail address. In fact, if you feel the need to REALLY exercise your 1st Amendmant Rights and post a message here which contains swearing and vulgar, outrageous language, please sign it with a real e-mail address, your name and phone number. After all, anyone feeling the need to do that should have no problem identifying themselves to the community, right? (If not, then such postings will be considered as "graffiti" and will be removed promptly.) 4. Those that are obviously "flamers" who never add anything of particular value here, and are just name callers will probably be removed depending on how annoyed the Webmaster happens to be at the time. 5. To those who ANSWER flamers and perpetuate the inane posts...JUST SAY NO!! Don't respond to those types of messages. When you do, THEY WIN! Annoying, name calling posts of no discussion value will be removed....we have other uses for the disk space. 6. Postings concerning business "opportunities", advertisements for products or services, multi-level marketing, etc. should be posted in the 4042.com FREE Classifieds - not in the Discussion Group.
Hey Shane, come see us soon. Oh and you can't pimp yourself on here dude. :lol: Sandy & Buddy :mrgreen:
No I don't have kin in Smithfield that I know of. And as for the goats I don't have them unfortunatley. Had to sell them after my divorce a couple years ago. I miss em that's for sure!!
You trained through Animal Behavior College? I was wondering how you liked it. I've been considering it, but I've read a lot of mixed reviews about it. Feel free to drop me a PM if you prefer.
Shane, My dog likes to eat ****. Every morning I let her out to pee, and she comes back in and I know EXACTLY where she's been. It's not that I don't feed her well, or even that I mind her eating ****, it's just that she wants to come back in and lick me in the face! Come to think of it, maybe if we could just get her to quit licking me in the face, I wouldn't be bothered that she's a ****eatin' dog. So tell me Shane, is it easier to get a dog to quit eating **** or just to get 'em to quit licking your face. I will try whichever you think is easier, because I'm having a hard time right now and can't afford any big dog behavioral/psychiatric bills. Me and my ****eatin' dog await your reply with baited breath. (Pun intended) Your fiend, dgsatman :twisted:
Dgsatman, There are supplements that you can give your dog that makes poop less tasty to them and discourage that behavior. Check out DrFosterSmith.com, they have those supplements. There is also a newsletter from Dr Jon (drjon@petplace.com) entitled "Disgusting Behavior! Why do dogs eat feces?" that you find enlightening. Good Luck!
She is an outdoor hound dog, that is the problem. lol She has accidents in the house and her nose overtakes her common sense when it comes to paws on the counter. I want her to be indoor/outdoor and listen to me. Once she gets a whiff of something, it's all over. Send me a PM, as I will be looking to get her some training later on in the fall.
dg , the problem you are having is a tough one to break and also a tough one to diagnose. theres lots of reasons dogs do that. It could be something missing from their diet , boredom ,stress or it just tastes good to them. It could also be that their area isnt tidy. Its hard to say without seeing the dog in action. I definetly understand the financial situation but the consultation is free if you want me to come take a look id be glad too ! As the other person said there are supplements to put in their food that will make their waste much less palatable however I have seen those fail with dogs that have a real behaviorial problem in this area . Without knowing if its a behavior issue or dietary I wouldnt feel comfortable giving general advice for the safety of the dog. The most middle of the road treatment would be the food supplement , however always consult your vet first . I hope this helps a little ! Thanks , Shane
DG I just want to be as thourough as possible and give you sound advice. Poop eating is a serious issue , it seems like an annoying and disgusting habit to us but the real problem is what happens when they bring that back in your home. It has the potential to be a health risk for not only the dog but you and whoever lives in the home as well.
One of my pugs used to do that, changed her diet, (brand of food) and she stopped doing it, she wasn't eating her own, she was eating the other pugs..eww.
Here is the article from PetPlace.com that I mentioned. It gives a lot of info about why dogs do this behavior: Your dog's behavior can be interesting, complicated, endearing and surprising. It can also be somewhat repugnant – especially the habit of eating feces. Although not the favorite topic of dog owners, stool eating, or coprophagia, is a universal canine behavior. At some point in a dog's life he's likely to sample the feces of cats, hoofed animals, (notably horses and deer), rabbits, and other dogs. He may even indulge in eating his own stool. Why would your dog be compelled to engage in such a revolting habit? Because he's driven by the forces of nature. Coprophagia happens to be a normal behavior for dogs and has evolutionary underpinnings. Back in the days when our dogs' ancestors lived in cramped dens the living space quickly became soiled with waste from puppies – an ideal environment for transmission of parasites and other disease carriers. The mother and other adults ingested stool to keep the den clean. From this we know that dogs, in a primitive sense, are "programmed" to seek and eat stool in some situations. For a different reason, as an omnivore, your dog may also be attracted to the stool of deer, horses, rabbits and other animals for the nutrients and vegetable matter they contain. Of course, these nutrients are adequately supplied by commercial dog foods and are no longer needed from other sources, particularly one so disgusting. But, your dog may not be interested in such nutritional trivia, especially while running through fields in search of bounty. Evolutionary behavior notwithstanding, however, it's still upsetting when your own cocker spaniel sweeps the yard in search of "snacks." Equally annoying is a raid on the cat's litter box. As many of us who live with both dogs and cats can attest, cat stool seems particularly attractive to dogs for some unknown reason. Eating feces can develop into a problem when it becomes habitual. The behavior is most commonly observed in puppies and juvenile dogs, and is often associated with the dog spending long periods of time alone with little stimulation. Coprophagia is especially likely in caged puppies (such as those in pet stores), puppies or dogs kept in crates for long periods, and in dogs that spend long days in a fenced yard. The problem is often resolved when dogs are properly supervised. If the behavior persists into adulthood, it could indicate a problem. The dog may not be getting the right amount of nutrients in his food or he may be fed on an irregular schedule (which means he doesn't know when his next meal is coming). Or he may not be getting enough food as a whole. Or, he may be bored, and coprophagia is one way to pass the time Naturally, if the behavior is caused by some nutritional deficiency, it's important to correct the imbalance. The dog may need to be fed on a different schedule, and perhaps more often. Dry food may be more effective in curtailing the habit than canned food, especially high fiber food. Prevention is the Best Medicine What can you do about this less-than-desirable habit? The most effective remedy is prevention. Your dog is less likely to ingest feces if you supervise him more closely. Use a leash when walking him and clean feces from the yard (or litter box) daily. If your dog spends a great number of hours outdoors and the stool eating is troublesome, consider keeping him indoors when he is alone. If you prefer to correct the behavior, there are a few options. Unfortunately, most commercial remedies are ineffective. These typically involve adding some substance to your dog's diet (for dogs that eat their own stool) to make the stool taste strange. This solution requires the dog to sample the stool for it to be effective and it is less practical than simple avoidance. In addition, you can try leaving your dog's feces in the yard and covering them with a nontoxic chemical but this is unlikely to fool your dog. He is likely to avoid the trap, but not necessarily to learn a lesson. Should your dog's chosen smorgasbord be the litter box, you can effectively restrict access to the room that it is in by installing a hook-and-eye mechanism on the door and propping it just wide enough so the cat (but not the dog) can come and go freely. In most cases, one or other of these efforts will probably help resolve the problem. But if your dog's habit persists in spite of your efforts, or if it seems compulsive in any way, consult your veterinarian for evaluation of your dog's health and for help with a behavior modification plan.
Well Cleo, I dunno if Shane answered about the coonhound or not. Anyway, my suggestion is to when the dog is in the home, until she is reliably housebroken, to go backwards and use what's called the "umbilical method". This is basically tethering a leash to your dog to keep her close to you. Monitor her behavior, as she starts to act like she is going to go potty, take her out ASAP. Give her a command to potty, when she goes, give her treat. I train Service Dogs (well, I've trained A service dog for my daughter and will be starting training another one soon) so when they start going potty as soon as I command it, then I know they know the command. I will jackpot them for going to a squat to potty almost immediately. Jackpot is like really high value treat and several of them, not their normal good boy here's a cookie. When you cannot be with your dog, crate it. They are den animals and will not want to soil their area. As far as jumping on counters, that's a fun one, lots of impulse control. I would start on the ground, teaching "Leave it" Set a desired item of lowish value near the dog. When the dog goes to investigate it, give a command "leave it" as the dog turns her head away from the item, reward her with a treat. Increase the challenge, if it's a toy, jiggle it, make it squeak whatever. If it's food, make it something more tempting. Once she knows the commands, transition it to jumping on the counter. When she goes to jump, give her the correction to leave it. Find an acceptable behavior to replace with the jumping on the counter. Have her sit by the counter, praise her for self control of sitting and reward her. Try to get her to do the appropriate behavior a few times and reward her, but if she jumps on the counter, the game is over. Put away the treats and give her the leave it. This will help her learn that you control the goodies and that jumping on the counter won't earn her goodies (but sitting nicely beside it just might). The most important thing for any of this to really work, is the dog will have to respect you. This doesn't have to be done by force, but being consistent in enforcing the rules (the jumping on the counter is a no no). Finally, she's a coonhound, she wants to do what she was bred to do ancestorally. Track. Lay a trail, put as much of your scent in the trail as you can. In that trail, also put small bits of cheese or hotdog or other really good treat. At the end of the track, jackpot her for doing well. The goal is, to have her associate your scent and following your scent with reward. As she understands the task to track, use fewer and fewer treats (fading the reward) so that you only reward sporadically during the track and at the very end of the track. Hope this helps. I'm not sure how Shane may approach it, its often to easier to understand it better if its demonstrated first.
