In The Garden - General topics, questions, & tips

Heirloom Tomatoes, etc you won't find anywhere else

http://nctomatoman.weebly.com/from-the-vine---2014-plants.html

OK, folks, my good friend, Craig LeHoullier, otherwise known as the NC Tomato Man has his tomatoes, peppers, and egg plants ready for sale.

You will not find these varieties any where else!

btw, if you have never had a Cherokee Purple tomato, you haven't lived!! Well, Craig is the guy who named this tomato which is a MUST HAVE tomato in any garden!!

He used to sell his plants at the Farmer's Mkt in Raleigh but is only selling BY APPOINTMENT from his house in N. Raleigh.

When you make an appointment, tell him "the Sheriff" sent you!!

 

Grow some cucamelons this year!!

I grew these little jewels for the first time last year based on the link below.

Prolific production.

Delicious!

You'll need to trellis them or grow them in hanging baskets. I'm going with the hanging baskets this year.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x02CuLPYVdw

 

If you want a tomato that covers the sandwich with one slice, my grandparents grew the Mortgage Lifter variety for decades. A thick slice between two pieces of bread, lightly salted and with a little mayo if you desire, but you may have to stand over the sink to eat it.

http://www.guntersgreenhouse.com/plantinfo/plant_information_tomato_mortgagelifter.htm

 

Are EGGSHELLS good for your garden, especially tomatoes?

Short answer: NO

BUT, you will see many articles in magazines and blogs that say that eggshells are GREAT for adding calcium to your garden.

This is because this "solution" seemed like a logical source for calcium, and it has been talked about so much it has become an urban legend.

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http://www.aces.edu/timelyinfo/Ag Soil/2005/November/s-05-05.pdf

S-05-05 November, 2005

Crushed Eggshells in the Soil

Charles C. Mitchell, Extension Agronomist-Soils

As a dedicated gardener, I’ve read many articles over the years about home composting and the benefits of adding crushed eggshells to the compost pile. Since shells are mostly calcium carbonate, it is reasonable to assume that they add calcium to the soil and help to reduce soil acidity. This is indeed what most of these gardening articles propose. Therefore, I’ve always saved the shells along with other compostable kitchen wastes for my compost pile without really giving it much thought.

Recently, however, I had a call from an enterprising farmer who wanted to know just how effective eggshells were when applied as an alternative to ground, agricultural limestone. A nearby company processed raw eggs into egg products and produced several tons of eggshells each day which went
into the local landfill. “What a waste of valuable landfill space and a potentially good soil amendment!” he thought. The company was more than grateful to have him truck them off. They may even pay him to land apply this by-product. This was a good opportunity to really see how effective
eggshells may be when applied as a alternative to ground agricultural limestone.

Testing

Samples of the eggshells were dried, finely ground, and analyzed by the Auburn University Soil Testing Laboratory. In a 3-week incubation study, very acid topsoil from a Marvyn sandy loam (pH=4.9) was treated with 4 different liming materials (Table 1). An untreated control that had nothing
applied was also used. The hand-crushed eggshells were to simulate what would happen when a farmer actually moved the shells and spread them on farmland. This is also what would happen when a home gardener adds them to the compost or garden soil.

Each material was applied at 4 different rates based upon the actual calcium carbonate equivalent of each material: 0.5x, 1x, 2x, and 4x. The x rate is the estimated rate of pure Ca(OH)2 (effective CaCO3 equivalent of 135%) needed to raise the pH of the soil to 6.5. Because each material has a
different calcium carbonate equivalent, each material was applied a different “x” rates. Treated soil was moistened to approximately field capacity and allowed to incubate at room temperature for 3 weeks. Soil pH was determined after 24 hours, 7 days, 14 days, and 21 days. Soil was mixed each time it was sampled.

Lime Effectiveness

The effectiveness of CaCO3 and ground agricultural limestone is a product of its neutralizing value (total alkalinity) expressed as calcium carbonate equivalency and its fineness. Calcium carbonate is not water soluble. Eggshells are not water soluble. They must be ground finely enough and mixed with the soil so that lime particles come into contact with acidity on the surface of soil clay and organic matter. This is why Alabama’s lime law states that all ground agricultural limestone sold in Alabama must pass certain particle size specifications. This must be stated on the bag or label.
Applying coarse, sand-sized limestone is not much better than applying sand. The finer the lime, the more effective it is. We expected the same would be true for eggshells.

Results

Coarse, hand-crushed, shells were not much better than nothing at all in raising soil pH (Fig-ure 1). On the other hand, finely ground shells were as effective as pure Ca(OH)2 when applied at equivalent rates based upon their respective neutralizing values.

Why was ground agricultural limestone not as effective as pure Ca(OH)? Because it contains a lot of ineffective, coarse, sand-size particles. It wasn’t as fine as finely ground eggshells. However, in the “real world”, lime recommendations usually take this into consideration. The Auburn University
Soil Testing Laboratory’s limestone recommendations assume that ag. lime is only about 63% as effective as powder-fine, pure CaCO3 with a neutralizing value of 100%.

Finely ground shells were also very effective at increasing soil test (Mehlich 1) extractable calcium in the soil but soil treated with the hand-crushed shells had no more extractable Ca than untreated soil (Table 3). This suggests that coarse shells would not be a good source of Ca for a crop such as peanuts which require high Ca in the pegging zone. However, dried and finely-ground shells would be an acceptable alternative to conventional agricultural lime as a source of Ca for peanuts.

Conclusions

Coarsely crushed eggshells are relatively ineffective as a soil liming material or as a source of calcium.

Although the sample used in this study had a total neutralizing value of 59% of pure calcium carbonate, it had to be very finely ground in order to be effective at increasing soil pH.

Broken eggshells can be safely land applied. Nitrogen from protein residues in eggshells and possibly other nutrients will eventually add to the fertility of the soil. Except for nitrogen, this will probably be a very slow process.

Therefore, unless shells are mechanically ground at least as finely as ground
agricultural limestone, they should not be used as a substitute for conventional soil liming materials.

However, we do not suspect any negative effect from their application to the soil.

 

TOMATOES - Blossom End Rot - best article ever

Since I love tomatoes so much, here's one of the best articles on BER from one of my favorite experts on tomatoes, Dr. Carolyn Male.

btw, DO NOT buy any SPRAYS that say they will help with BER!!!
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http://www.webgrower.com/information/carolyn_ber.html

Date: Fri Jul 27, 2001 3:08 pm

Subject: Blossom End Rot

Blossom End Rot (BER) is one of the most common tomato problems seen in the early part of the season. It is a physiological condition, not a disease caused by a fungus, a bacterium or a virus. Therefore it cannot be treated. And as I'll explain below, it is very difficult, if not impossible, to prevent.

BER has nothing to do with the blossoms, it refers to the fact that at the end of the tomato opposite the place where the tomato is attached to the stem, called the stem end, is the bottom of the tomato, which is called the blossom end. You often can see remnants of the blossom attached to that end as the tomato forms. At the blossom end one sees a flattened area that looks leathery and initially brown and then black, as the fruit rots.

BER is said to occur when there is uneven watering, drought, heavy rainfall, excessive nitrogen fertilization, rapid plant growth or root pruning during cultivation, high winds and rapid temperature changes. So lots of conditions have been associated with BER. But the rapid plant growth and nitrogen fertilization are both common to conditions seen early in the season, and indeed, that is when most BER occurs. Then it usually just goes away.

BER occurs because under the conditions just stated, Ca++ moves from the fruit into the vasculature (stems) of the plant. Or, some feel that Ca++ never reaches the fruits because under stress demand for Ca++ exceeds supply. This lowered amount of Ca++ is what causes BER. Excessive rates of transpiration (kind of like sweating in humans) also is involved in Ca++ displacement. Thus, the plant as a whole is NOT Ca++ deficient, the Ca++ has just been displaced. Many books and magazine articles tell you that by adding Ca++ in the form of lime or eggshells, for instance, that you can prevent BER. That does NOT appear to be true. University field trial experiments have so far failed to show that BER can be prevented by addition of Ca++. Peppers and many cole crops are also susceptible to BER and there's quite a bit of literature on BER and Ca++ for those crops also. The results are the same; addition of Ca++ does not prevent BER.

Some data strongly suggests that foliar spraying with Ca++ is of no use because not enough gets to the fruits to do any good. And it's known that the sprays for fruits that are sold are useless. No molecules can get across the fruit epidermis. If they did, just what do you think would happen to the fruits when it rained.

Not all varieties of tomatoes get BER. Some never do, others are horrible. That's not surprising since certainly there are slight physiological differences between varieties. After all, almost all garden tomatoes, with the exception of the currant tomatoes are in the same genus and species, Lycopersicon lycopersicum. And we humans are all in the same species, Homo sapiens, var. sapiens....and look how different some of our physiologies are. Whoa!

So, BER is a physiological condition, cannot be cured, and current literature data suggests it cannot be prevented. It occurs on some, but not all varieties of tomatoes, is usually seen early in the season and then stops, for most folks. It would be nice to say that you could even out your watering, prevent droughts and heavy rainfalls, ensure even and not rapid growth of plants and not disturb the roots by shallow cultivating. But on a practical basis, I think we all know that's almost impossible. So, BER has never bothered me, I just ignore it, and it goes away with time.

Adding Ca++ to soils that are Ca++ deficient makes sense, but few soils are. And if soils are acidic, Ca++ is not taken up well but addition of Epsom Salts to the soil can aid in Ca++ uptake in such acidic soils.

Many folks add Ca++ and then see that BER disappears. What they fail to realize is that BER is going to go away anyway, as the season progresses. And that's because as the plants get larger they are better able to handle the many stresses that can induce it. So one cannot correlate addition of Ca++ to disappearance of BER. Universities have done so many studies on this already because BER is a billion dollar problem in the commercial veggie industry.

Of all the stresses that can induce BER the two that are most under control of the home gardener are fertilization and water delivery. That is, too much fertilizer causes plants to grow too rapidly and is perhaps one of the major causes of BER developing. Too rich soils do the same thing. Plant growth simply outstrips the ability of Ca++ to get to the fruits.

Mulching to help ensure even delivery of water can also be done and is also one of the two major causes, in my humble opinion, of BER. BER appears usually on half ripe fruits but also can appear on grass green ones. Lack of Ca++ only occurs at the blossom end of the fruit and it causes tissue destruction which leads to that papery grayish/blackish lesion appearing. Now sometimes that lesion opens up and fungi and bacteria enter and that causes the rotting and also the appearance of fungal growth on and in the lesion.

Just pick off any BER fruits that appear and soon the next fruits to ripen will BER-less.

Many books, magazine articles and websites still say to add Ca++ as lime, eggshells, etc, and seem not to be aware of all the research that has been done in the last 20 years. But many books, magazine articles, are now sharing this newer information about addition of Ca++ not being able to either prevent or cure BER except in rare situations of low Ca++ soils or acidic soils.

I suppose it will take another generation for the right information to be present everywhere. And from my own experience I can tell you that there will be folks who will get madder than can be when they read this kind of info because they simply believe otherwise. So be it. Addition of modest amounts of Ca++ aren't' harmful, but I feel strongly that folks should know what's going on with past and current research re BER and Ca++.

Carolyn
NY, Zone 4/5

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Carolyn J. Male, Ph.D., retired as a professor of microbiology from the College of Saint Rose in Albany, New York. She is a major voice on several internet tomato forums and message boards. Her articles have appeared in Kitchen Gardening, The American Cottage Gardener, and The Historical Gardener. She is the author of the book entitled, "100 Heirloom Tomatoes for the American Garden". Dr. Male scientifically -- and lovingly -- has raised more than a thousand different varieties of tomatoes in her zone 5 garden in upstate New York.

 

I bought some of these at the farmers market for my garden, can't wait to see what I get from them!

 

SEVIN Dust/Spray is NOT your friend in the garden!!!

If at all possible, DO NOT use SEVIN dust/spray in your gardens to control pests!!!!

SEVIN is NOT your friend!

It will kill the pests such as aphids, etc, and also KILL all the good insects you need such as BEES, Ladybugs, and Praying Mantis!!!

You need BEES to help pollinate your garden!!

The Ladybugs and Praying Mantis will eat the aphids and other "bad" bugs!

Use organic methods and your garden will thrive.

My daddy didn't know anything BUT Sevin to use when I was growing up.

I haven't used Sevin in years and my gardens do well.

You can even order Ladybugs and Praying Mantis online!!

Greenhouses buy thousands of them and scatter them throughout.

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TASSY: you are going to LOVE the Cherokee Purples!!!! Get some copper fungicide and give them a weekly spray to help prevent any blight. Heirloom tomatoes are more susceptible to diseases than the hybrids.


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TOMATO CARE TIPS

1. When watering tomatoes planted in a traditional "dirt" garden, try NOT to splash water up on the tomatoes. The soil can hold disease spores, etc and infect your plants.

2. Don't wet the whole tomato plant when watering. This helps foster a good environment for diseases to attack your plants. Try to water early in the morning if possible.

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Excellent link: 7 things to avoid when preparing your garden

http://www.growingwithplants.com/2012/05/7-things-to-avoid-when-preparing.html

 

Kent,

I have a backyard that seems to have a lot of sand in it. I also have a lot of trees. Grass doesn't do well and I need a good ground covering for the dogs and me. What do you suggest? Some grass is growing, but not like I'd like to see.

Thanks,
Sherry

 

Coffee grounds in the garden - good link

http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2008/07/080707171641.htm

Great article about using coffee grounds in the compost pile and the garden.

I've just worked out a great arrangement with a local Dunkins Donut to save me their coffee grounds! I stopped in the Wakefield store and the VP of Operations happened to be there. He and both managers thought it was a great idea!

They put the grounds in an empty 5 gallon dough bucket!! Easy peasey! Japaneasy!

I'll be going by on a regular basis to pick up my buckets.

So, check with any place that sells coffee and score some great and FREE organic supplements for your garden!

Thanks again, Dunkin Donuts! Ya'll r the bomb dot com!

 

me too!

We have the exact same problem too! :banghead:

 

Fresh turnips from the garden tonight! Mmmmm!



A cool weather crop that can be planted/harvested twice a year.

Gave the greens to my neighbor. The missus just wants the turnips!

btw, it's not too late to start a garden!!!

 

I grew some, but have no idea what to do with them. Any good recipes?

 

Never too late to start composting!!

 

btw, a little encouragement to start that garden!!

 

Great (short) video on composting - he's funny, too!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n9OhxKlrWwc

The one I'm going to build:

http://www.vegetable-gardening-with-lorraine.com/homemade-compost-bin.html

Lots of other designs out there, too.

Also, for worm bins.

 

I prefer the pile method.

1) put your stuff in a pile

2) periodically turn the pile


Good exercise and never had a problem with it composting down quickly.

 

Japanese beetles have arrived!

Time to get those traps out!

 

Herbs all year - cool way to preserve them

http://www.organicgardening.com/cook/herbs-all-year

 

I am looking to grow some sweet potatoes this year and NO ONE has any. Debnams = NO
Bridgers = NO
Johnny's Seeds = NO
Donnies = NO
Coor Farm = NO

Help me! :grouphug:

 

In re to sweet taters---My sister had the same problem last year and used this site as a reference:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtsC7SglFxs